𝐏𝐬𝐚𝐦𝐦𝐨𝐜𝐨𝐫𝐚 𝐂𝐨𝐫𝐚𝐥: 𝐀 𝐃𝐞𝐞𝐩 𝐃𝐢𝐯𝐞 𝐈𝐧𝐭𝐨 𝐀 𝐇𝐚𝐫𝐝𝐲, 𝐔𝐧𝐝𝐞𝐫𝐫𝐚𝐭𝐞𝐝 𝐒𝐏𝐒 𝐁𝐞𝐚𝐮𝐭𝐲

Introduction

If you’ve spent any time peering into frag tanks or reef forums, you’ve probably seen a Psammocora (Pronounced sam-uh-KOR-uh) coral and didn’t even realize it. These understated but resilient corals are often mistaken for Montipora or ignored altogether because they aren’t “flashy”—but once you know what to look for, you’ll start to see why this genus deserves a spot in your reef. With unique texture, strong tolerance to less-than-ideal conditions, and fast growth once established, Psammocora might just be your next favorite coral.

What Is Psammocora?

Common Names:

You might hear Psammocora called a few different things in the hobby—“Sandpaper Coral,” “Velvet Coral,” or even “Fuzzy Encruster.” And honestly, all of those names make sense once you’ve seen one up close. The “sandpaper” nickname comes from the rough, matte texture the coral develops when dry, while “velvet” describes how its surface can look under the right lighting—soft, muted, and almost fabric-like. I’ve also had people call it “fuzzy,” but not in the fluffy-polyp way—more in that micro-textured, almost blurry-edged sort of way. You’ll know it when you see it.

Depth Range:

In the wild, these corals are incredibly adaptable. They’re typically found anywhere from just below the surface down to about 40 meters, which is pretty deep for a shallow-water stony coral. That broad depth range means they’re used to thriving under a wide variety of lighting conditions—from intense, direct sun exposure to those cool, calm, blue-tinted zones where light fades and plankton floats. And that natural adaptability translates beautifully into home aquariums.

Growth Forms:

As far as growth forms go, Psammocora is mostly an encruster—meaning it hugs tightly to whatever surface it’s on, slowly spreading outward like reef-building wallpaper. Some varieties can exhibit branching/plating morphologies or even low, cushion-like mounds over time, especially if they’ve got the room and steady flow. But unlike more aggressive plating corals that take over fast, Psammocora tends to grow at a steady, predictable pace.

Surface Texture:

The real signature feature, though, is that surface texture. If you run your fingers over it (not that I’m recommending touching your corals, but we’ve all done it once), it genuinely feels like super-fine grit sandpaper. Up close, you’ll notice its skeleton is covered in super tiny, tightly packed corallites—so small that many polyps never visibly extend. When they do, it’s usually at night or during feeding, and even then, it’s subtle. But that dense skeletal texture is part of what makes this coral so tough. It’s like it evolved with a little extra armor to survive sediment, surge, and whatever else the reef throws at it.

Tamara's Pro Tips: If you’re trying to ID a mystery frag, flip on your white lights and take a look at the surface. If it’s matte, micro-textured, and has that “velvet but gritty” look, there’s a good chance it’s Psammocora. And don’t be surprised if it looks a little boring at first—this is one of those corals that becomes more beautiful the longer you own it. Its beauty is in the details.

Why I Love Psammocora—and Why You Might Too

Psammocora is honestly one of those corals I wish more people gave a chance. It’s not loud or dramatic, but what it brings to a reef tank is something I really value—reliability. This coral is hardy and forgiving, which makes it an awesome introduction to SPS if you’re just starting to branch out from softies or LPS. Unlike Acros or tenuis varieties that can melt down overnight if your alk dips 0.3, Psammocora tends to shrug off little fluctuations and just keep growing.

And speaking of growth—when it’s happy, it grows surprisingly fast. You’ll start to notice it encrusting plugs, rock, or even flowing over seams and epoxy in a way that feels like it’s politely claiming space without bullying anyone around it. It’s not invasive, but it’s definitely persistent. I’ve used it to fill in awkward corners, transition zones between different rock levels, and even to hide a frag plug that just wouldn’t blend in.

One of its superpowers is how well it adapts to a wide range of lighting and nutrient conditions. It’ll hold color and form in low-nutrient systems, but it actually tends to look even better in tanks that are just a little “dirty”—you know, with nitrate around 5 to 10 and trace phosphate. It’s like the coral equivalent of a houseplant that thrives on neglect.

And that’s the other thing—it rarely needs babysitting. I don’t find myself hovering over it or making special accommodations like I would for an Acropora millepora or a sensitive chalice. It’s the kind of coral that once it’s placed, you almost forget about it—until one day you realize it’s become a perfect backdrop, or added depth and texture to your aquascape.

From a design standpoint, it’s incredible for blending. That tight encrusting pattern makes it ideal for covering up frag plug bases, epoxy blobs, or seams in your rockwork. It also doesn’t cast long shadows or extend aggressive sweepers, so you can nestle it between other corals without worrying about turf wars. And that brings me to my favorite point: Psammocora plays really well in mixed tanks. It doesn’t sting, it doesn’t smother, and it won’t get overtaken easily if you give it a fair spot. It’s one of the few SPS corals I trust near LPS or even slower soft corals—just keep a little space, and it will quietly do its thing.

And here’s the underrated magic trick—it fills those weird spaces that most corals avoid. You know those oddly shaped ledges, narrow vertical gaps, or that awkward glue line you just can’t unsee? Give Psammocora some time and light, and it’ll smooth it all over like reef-friendly grout. It doesn’t just survive there—it thrives.

Species Spotlight: Meet the Psammocoras

Psammocora might not be as flashy as an Acropora or as trendy as a Torch coral, but this genus has some seriously cool members—each with its own quirks. Here are the most common species you’ll run into (or mistake for a Montipora at first glance):

1. Psammocora contigua – The "Textured Tile"

• Looks Like: A bumpy, uneven encrusting mat with a sandpaper finish. Under blues, it often glows lime green or pale pink.

• Growth Style: Starts encrusting but can form thick ridges or mini-plates as it matures.

• Why Hobbyists Love It: One of the fastest growers in the genus—great for filling in blank rock space.

2. Psammocora superficialis – The "Velvet Carpet"

• Looks Like: Ultra-fine, almost fuzzy texture. Colors shift from tan under whites to electric green under blues.

• Growth Style: Aggressively encrusting—great for covering ugly frag plugs or epoxy seams.

• Bonus: Handles dirtier water (higher nitrates) better than most SPS.

3. Psammocora stellata – The "Starry Night"

Uncommon in the hobby.

• Looks Like: Tight, star-shaped corallites that give it a pinprick texture. Colors range from deep olive to neon green under actinics.

• Growth Style: Stays low and encrusting, but with a more "organized" pattern than P. contigua.

• Pro Tip: This one’s a nighttime feeder—watch for subtle polyp extension after lights-out.

Tamara’s Pro Tip: If you’re not sure which Psammocora you have, check the corallites under a magnifying glass. P. stellata has star-shaped pits, while P. contigua looks more like random dimples.

Coloration and Visual Appeal

Okay, so if you’re someone who chases the wild rainbows and jaw-dropping color morphs of Acros or Chalices, Psammocora might not blow your socks off at first glance. It’s not a showboat. But that’s exactly why I love it—it’s a coral with quiet confidence. The beauty of Psammocora isn’t loud; it’s subtle, refined, and honestly kind of hypnotic once you really see it.

Under white lights, it might come across as earthy or muted—think olive greens, soft pinks, sandy tans. But the moment you switch on those actinics or full-spectrum blues? That’s where it comes alive. Suddenly, it glows with neon green, bright lime, or even this icy violet-purple shimmer that feels like it belongs in a sci-fi movie. It’s not the kind of coral that pops across the room—but when you’re up close, especially at dusk or dawn light settings, it draws your eyes in and makes you linger.

You’ll often see:

• Neon green: This is probably the most common and most striking under blue lighting. It almost looks electric.
• Forest green or olive tones: More subdued, but they give a super natural look that pairs beautifully with rockwork.
• Purples with a bluish undertone: These show up best under well-balanced spectrum and look regal without being over the top.
• Soft pinks and browns: Under white lights these can seem understated, but they’ll still glow subtly under blues—especially if nutrients are balanced.
• Icy tan-greens: This is one of those shades that doesn’t sound exciting on paper, but it glows like moonlight under actinics.
• Bi-color morphs: Some wild or maricultured colonies develop contrasting centers or rims—bright green with a purple edge, or tan with a highlighter-green center. These aren’t always common in stores, but when you find one… grab it.

Tamara’s Pro Tips: If you want your Psammocora to really show off, look at it about 30 minutes after the main lights go off and just your blues are running. That’s when its natural fluorescence takes the spotlight. And if you’re running LEDs, play around with the 420–460 nm range—that’s the sweet spot where these corals stop pretending to be background players and start showing their true glow.

Lighting Requirements

One of the things I really appreciate about Psammocora is how flexible it is with lighting—it doesn’t demand perfection, but there is definitely a sweet spot where it shines (literally). For solid growth and vibrant color, aim for a PAR range of 120–250. It’ll tolerate lower light—around 100 PAR—but you may notice slower growth or a duller appearance over time. That said, it won’t crash from being underlit the way some high-maintenance SPS will.

Where Psammocora really earns its keep is under the right spectrum, particularly in the 420–460 nm range. This strong blue and violet light brings out its natural fluorescence and gives it that signature glow we all love. Under daylight settings, it can look fairly matte or muted, but once the blues kick in—especially during your tank’s ramp-down period—it starts to shimmer with subtle greens, purples, or even icy tones. It’s the kind of coral that doesn’t beg for attention, but rewards you if you take the time to notice it.

Even better, it adapts well to a wide variety of lighting systems. Whether you’re running LEDs, T5s, halides, or a hybrid setup, Psammocora isn’t too fussy—as long as it’s given time to acclimate. The biggest mistake I see with this coral is throwing it straight under high-intensity LEDs without a proper adjustment period. That’s a fast track to bleaching.

• Ideal PAR Range: 120–250 for most species (deep-water morphs prefer a 80-150 PAR)
• Minimum Light Tolerance: ~100 PAR is survivable but may reduce color and growth
• Preferred Spectrum: Strong blue and violet (420–460 nm) for optimal fluorescence
• Compatible Lighting Types: LEDs, T5s, halides, or hybrid systems—all work well
• Most Fluorescent Timing: Dusk, ramp-down, or actinic-only hours reveal the best coloration
• Important Note: Sensitive to abrupt light increases—acclimate slowly to avoid bleaching

Tamara’s Pro Tips: Start new frags low and bring them up gradually. I always give Psammocora 2–3 weeks to adjust to its new home before moving it closer to high light. If you’re running powerful LEDs, resist the urge to crank it—this coral thrives when eased into its final spot.

Water Flow Preferences

Like most SPS corals, Psammocora appreciates water movement—not just for gas exchange, but to keep its textured surface clean and healthy. You don’t need to blast it with direct flow (please don’t), but you do want a steady, varied current that helps it breathe and keeps debris from settling. That velvety surface might look low-maintenance, but it can trap detritus if the flow’s too weak—especially with encrusting varieties that hug the rock.

On the flip side, too much direct flow—like a powerhead pointed straight at it—can actually cause the tissue at the edges to wear down over time. You’ll see this as slow recession or that “peeled back” look around the rim, which is your cue to back off the firehose treatment.

Here’s what to aim for:

• Flow Intensity: Moderate to high is ideal, but not blasting.
• Flow Pattern: Chaotic, indirect, or alternating is best—think random turbulence, not a laser beam.
• Random Blasts: Encrusting forms can easily tray detritus, so an occassional blast to make sure the surfaces remain clear works wonders.

Flow Goals:

• Keep the coral’s surface clear of detritus and uneaten food
• Maintain good oxygen exchange
• Prevent buildup around the base, especially in low spots or shaded areas

Tamara’s Pro Tips: Watch the way food or microbubbles move around your Psammocora. If things settle on the coral and just sit there, the flow’s too weak. If the tissue near the edges starts looking thin or pulled back, it’s probably too strong or too focused. You want a gentle “dancing” motion—not thrashing. I like to place Psammocora where the current wraps around a corner or bounces off a rock—that soft turbulence tends to keep it happy without any erosion issues.

Water Parameters

This coral doesn’t demand perfection—it’s far more interested in stability. You don’t need ultra-low nutrients or a dialed-in dosing schedule to keep it happy. In fact, it tends to thrive in what I’d call “realistic reef conditions”—where nitrates aren’t zero, phosphate isn’t squeaky clean, and the occasional swing happens.

That said, while it can roll with small punches, it doesn’t like neglect. Sudden alkalinity swings, salinity shifts, or dramatic temperature changes can stress it just like any other coral. Keep things steady and predictable, and Psammocora will reward you with color, growth, and resilience.

Here are the target ranges I’ve had the most success with:

• Temperature: 76–78°F
• Salinity: 1.025–1.026
• pH: 8.1–8.4
• Alkalinity: 8–9.5 dKH
• Calcium: 420–450 ppm
• Magnesium: 1300–1400 ppm
• Nitrate: 2–10 ppm (don’t panic at 10—it’s fine)
• Phosphate: 0.02–0.07 ppm (a little goes a long way for color)

Tamara’s Pro Tips: One reason I recommend this coral for newer SPS keepers is because it doesn’t panic when nitrates hit 10 or when your alk drops 0.5 in a day. Just avoid neglect—stability is still king.

Feeding and Nutrition

Even though Psammocora is mostly self-sufficient thanks to its symbiotic zooxanthellae, it can and does benefit from occasional feeding—especially if you’re trying to boost growth or color. This coral isn’t as showy as others when it eats—you won’t see dramatic tentacle extension like you would with a torch or acan—but that doesn’t mean it’s not grabbing nutrients from the water.

Most of the time, its feeding response is subtle but with some showing more pronounced feeding behavior. A light fuzzing of the surface, maybe a change in texture or slight expansion, and that’s it. But trust me, it’s eating. And with the right foods, you can absolutely support better tissue density, color saturation, and faster encrusting.

Recommended Foods:

• Finely ground powdered blends like Reef Roids, Benepets, or Coral Feast
• Live or preserved phytoplankton
• Rotifers or microplankton suspensions
• Marine snow-style mixes and amino acid blends (in moderation)

Feeding Method:

• Target feeding is optional—some people do it, some don’t
• Broadcast feeding during the evening or lights-out period often works better, as polyps may extend slightly at night

Frequency:

• 1 to 2 times per week is more than enough
• Avoid daily feeding unless you have excellent nutrient export—overfeeding can lead to detritus buildup, especially in lower-flow areas

Tamara’s Pro Tips: You don’t need to see huge polyp extension for Psammocora to feed. This coral’s surface is densely packed with small corallites that can absorb food particles without much visible change. If you’re doing a feeding session, turn off your return pumps and keep flow off for about 15–20 minutes after broadcasting the food. That gives it enough time to absorb the nutrients before they’re swept away. It’s a low-key feeder—but that doesn’t mean it isn’t hungry.

Growth and Placement in the Tank

Depending on the lighting and flow, some morphs will stay flat and encrusting, while others may start forming mini plates or soft ridges as they expand. The growth is generally moderate—not as fast as Montipora, but definitely faster than Acros. And because it’s not aggressive, you can place it in more creative spots without worrying it’ll sting or smother its neighbors.

Placement Zones:

• Mid to lower rockwork
• Flat ledges and vertical surfaces
• Undersides of overhangs (if lighting is sufficient)
• Edges of islands or transition zones where rock shapes are awkward

Growth Habits:

• Encrusting forms will spread outward steadily across rock, plugs, epoxy, or rubble
• In certain conditions, you’ll see mini plating or ridged structures form, especially under moderate flow and light
• Will adapt to the surface it’s given, creating natural transitions and smoothing out rough edges

Aesthetic Uses:

• Perfect for covering up glue seams, exposed putty, and the dreaded “frag plug eyesore”
• Helps blend rockwork layers together for a more natural reef look
• Can serve as a visual “bridge” between SPS and LPS zones due to its peaceful nature

Aggression and Compatibility

If coral personalities were a thing, Psammocora would be the chill neighbor who minds their own business, keeps the music down, and doesn’t bother anyone. It’s a truly peaceful coral—no sweeper tentacles and no surprise stings. While non-aggressive, it may still compete chemically in high-density SPS systems.

That said, peaceful doesn’t mean pushy. While Psammocora won’t start a fight, it also won’t win one if a more aggressive or fast-growing coral starts encroaching. Fast softies like Xenia, green star polyps, and some Montipora morphs can easily overtake it if you don’t keep them in check. And if you place it right next to an LPS bruiser like a torch or Lobo, it’s going to lose that turf war every time.

To keep things harmonious, give it a little elbow room—about an inch or more from anything with sweepers or chemical defenses—and it’ll quietly thrive right alongside just about anything else.

• Aggression Level: Extremely peaceful
• No Sweepers: Safe to place near other peaceful corals
• Vulnerable To: Fast encrusters like Xenia, GSP, or Montipora
• Needs Space From: Aggressive LPS such as Euphyllia, Lobophyllia, and Favia
• Ideal Use: Safe to use in close proximity to SPS, softies, or as a buffer between more temperamental species

Tamara’s Pro Tips: In coral diplomacy, Psammocora is neutral territory. Just remember: it won’t defend itself, so be the reefkeeper that steps in before the bullies move in.

Fragging and Propagation

If you’re the kind of reefer who enjoys spreading the coral love—or just growing out your own colonies—Psammocora is an easy win. It’s very forgiving when fragged, which is one more reason it makes such a good coral for hobbyists who are still getting comfortable with SPS care.

You can frag it using a coral saw or even just bone cutters, depending on the thickness of the colony. If dealing with a thinner plating variety use a fine saw. Just try to get a clean edge, especially with encrusting forms. Once cut, place the frag in moderate light and flow to heal. No need for a special “frag hospital”—it usually bounces back quickly if your parameters are stable.

Encrusting frags will grab hold of almost any surface—tiles, rubble, frag disks, bare rock. Give it a few weeks, and it’ll start to spread and smooth over sharp edges or seams, turning even the most artificial mount into a natural-looking base.

• Fragging Difficulty: Easy and beginner-friendly
• Tools: Coral saw or bone cutters, depending on colony thickness
• Healing Conditions: Moderate light and flow for fast recovery
• Mounting Options: Rubble, ceramic tiles, frag disks, or directly on aquascape
• Regrowth Speed: Fast when stable—encrusting forms tend to take off quickly

Tamara’s Pro Tips: If you’re planning to build out a larger colony or grow a showpiece for your main display, try mounting several frags side-by-side on a large tile. Within a few weeks, they’ll start fusing together, creating a seamless mat of coral that you can later mount directly onto your rockwork. It’s also a great way to test different lighting or flow zones in your tank before committing to a permanent spot.

Troubleshooting Psammocora Problems

Even the hardiest corals have their bad days. Here’s how to decode (and fix) common Psammocora issues:

1. My Psammocora Is Losing Color

Likely Causes:

• Too much light (bleaching).
• Too little light (dulling/browning).
• Low nutrients (washed-out appearance).

Fix:

• Bleached? Move it lower or dim lights, then acclimate back up slowly.
• Brown? Check nitrates—if near zero, dose amino acids or increase feeding.

2. The Edges Are Receding

Likely Causes:

• Alk swings (biggest killer of Psammocora).
• Too much direct flow (tissue erosion).
• Stinging neighbors (even if it’s "peaceful," LPS sweepers can reach it).

Fix:

• Test alkalinity daily for a week—keep it stable (8–9 dKH).
• Redirect powerheads to create indirect turbulence.
• Give it 1–2 inches of space from aggressive corals.

3. It’s Not Growing

Likely Causes:

• Low phosphates (yes, really—Psammocora likes a little "dirty" water).
• Wrong placement (too shaded or blasted by flow).

Fix:

• Aim for 0.03–0.07 ppm phosphate and ~5–10 ppm nitrate.
• Move it to a moderate-flow, moderate-light zone (e.g., mid-rockwork).

4. White Patches Appeared

Likely Causes:

• STN (slow tissue necrosis) from parameter swings.
• Predators—check for red bugs or nudibranchs (rare but possible).

Fix:

• Dip in iodine-based coral dip (like Revive) if pests are suspected.
• For STN, stabilize alkalinity first, then reassess.

Tamara’s Pro Tip: Psammocora is a silent sufferer—it won’t slim or shed like an Acro when stressed. Watch for texture changes (grittier or "thinner" look) as an early warning sign.

Conclusion

Psammocora may not have the fanfare of Acros or the hypnotic sway of Euphyllia, but don’t let that fool you. This coral is a powerhouse of practicality—a resilient, attractive, and surprisingly adaptable species that deserves far more credit than it gets. Whether you’re a beginner dipping your toes into the SPS world or an advanced hobbyist looking to balance out your aquascape with a dependable encruster, Psammocora fits the bill. Its ability to thrive in diverse conditions, tolerate moderate nutrient levels, and recover quickly from fragging makes it one of the most user-friendly SPS corals available today.

Its subtle, velvety appearance might not catch your eye at first glance, but give it time—and good lighting—and you’ll start to appreciate its understated elegance. Like many great reef animals, its magic is in the details: that gentle shimmer under blues, the way it hugs and blends into rockwork, the steady pace at which it claims its space without causing conflict.

So next time you’re at your local fish store or browsing frags online, take a second look at that matte green or pink piece off to the side. You might just be looking at your tank’s next hidden gem.

Happy Reefing!

References

Borneman, Eric H. Aquarium Corals: Selection, Husbandry, and Natural History. TFH Publications, 2001.

Calfo, Anthony, and Robert Fenner. Reef Invertebrates: An Essential Guide to Selection, Care and Compatibility. Reading Trees Publications, 2003.

Delbeek, J. Charles, and Julian Sprung. The Reef Aquarium: Science, Art, and Technology. Volume 3. Ricordea Publishing, 2005.