𝐓𝐡𝐞 𝐏𝐚𝐯𝐨𝐧𝐚 𝐏𝐥𝐚𝐲𝐛𝐨𝐨𝐤:

𝐀 𝐁𝐞𝐠𝐢𝐧𝐧𝐞𝐫-𝐅𝐫𝐢𝐞𝐧𝐝𝐥𝐲 𝐒𝐏𝐒 𝐓𝐡𝐚𝐭 𝐏𝐚𝐜𝐤𝐬 𝐚 𝐏𝐮𝐧𝐜𝐡

Introduction

Pavona corals may not be the most hyped coral in the reef-keeping scene, but they’re a solid pick for anyone looking to add a hardy, fast-growing SPS to their system. Think of them as the quiet achievers of the SPS category—durable, beautiful, and often surprisingly affordable. Whether you’re dipping into SPS for the first time or looking for a unique piece to round out your aquascape, Pavona is a coral worth knowing. I hope you will love them as much as I do!

What is Pavona?

1. Type: SPS (Small Polyp Stony) Coral

Pavona is considered an SPS coral in the reefing community due to its calcified skeleton and small polyps, though its polyp size and growth style sometimes sit on the edge between traditional SPS and more encrusting LPS types. While they fall into the SPS category, they’re generally more forgiving than some of their high-maintenance cousins like Acropora or Seriatophora but may require more stability than hardy soft corals or LPS.

2. Common names: Cactus Coral, Lettuce Coral, Potato Chip Coral

These fun names come from their growth patterns. Some varieties have sharp, jagged ridges that look like a cactus. Others form wavy, ruffled edges—hence “lettuce” or “potato chip” coral. Don’t let the names fool you—they’re tough corals with serious character.

3. Native habitat:Indo-Pacific reefs

Pavona naturally grows in shallow, high-energy reef environments with strong lighting and turbulent water flow. You’ll often find them encrusting over rocks and reef crests in areas with lots of wave action.

4. Growth form: Encrusting, plating, or finger-like projections

Depending on the species and your tank’s conditions, Pavona can take on a variety of growth forms. Some will plate outward like a Montipora cap, others will form finger-like branches, and many will simply spread across the rock in an encrusting mat. This makes them versatile for different aquascaping needs.

Tamara’s Pro Tip: If you’re into visual texture, Pavona delivers. A lot of reefers overlook Pavona because it’s not as flashy as Acros or Torches, but that just means you can often find great color for a great price. It’s a sleeper hit.

Popular Species

1. Pavona cactus

This is the most iconic species you’ll find in the hobby. It grows in elegant, curling ridges that resemble cactus pads or delicate potato chips. The texture is amazing—almost sculptural—and the coral tends to form thin plates that ripple outward across your rockwork. It’s a great pick for filling in awkward gaps or adding some visual movement without needing a ton of space.

2. Pavona decussata

If you love layers and depth, this one’s for you. Pavona decussata tends to form stacked, leafy plates with a more compact and layered appearance. It doesn’t always grow quickly, but when it does, it builds these beautiful, overlapping formations that give a real “reef wall” aesthetic. (This one prefers moderate ti lower light)

3. Pavona frondifera

This one gets a bit wild. Instead of tidy plates, frondifera grows more irregularly, sometimes forming branching or finger-like structures. It adds a bit of chaos in the best way—great if you want to break up all the smooth lines in your scape.

Placement and Aquascaping Tips

1. Best placed mid-to-high on your rockwork

Pavona thrives in brighter areas of the tank with decent flow, so positioning it on the upper half of your aquascape gives it access to the light and movement it craves. Just be sure it’s not getting blasted by a powerhead.

2. Give it room to spread

Pavona is an encrusting beast. It can quickly coat rock surfaces and may creep toward slower-growing neighbors like LPS or zoas. Plan its location like you would a Montipora—leave it space to do its thing or it’ll take over before you know it.

3. Avoid shaded corners unless it’s a lower-light variety

Most Pavona species prefer moderate to high light, but some can tolerate slightly dimmer zones. Still, you’ll get the best color and growth when they’re in well-lit, stable areas of your reef.

Tamara’s Pro Tip: I love using Pavona to visually “bridge” rock islands or create transitions between zones. Let it crawl between structures, and within a few months, your tank will look like it’s been running for years—even if it’s still pretty new.

Lighting Requirements

1. Moderate to high light is preferred

Pavona generally does best in reef tanks with solid lighting, especially under moderate LED setups, T5s, or metal halides. Most Pavona species prefer moderate light (75-250 PAR), but some tolerate lower light, especially in nutrient-rich systems.

2. Ideal PAR range is around 75-250

Most Pavona morphs thrive in this window. Too little light and you’ll notice the coral flattening out, losing its punchy color, or slowing growth to a crawl. Too much, and it can start to bleach or recede from light stress.

3. Too much light can bleach it, but low light will stall growth and mute colors

If you notice a faded or washed-out look, try lowering its position or dialing back the intensity. On the flip side, if it’s dull and not spreading, bump it up slowly.

Tamara’s Pro Tip: I always start Pavona lower in the tank and gradually move it higher over a few weeks. This gives it time to acclimate and show off its best colors. Some green varieties are like little glowsticks under actinic blues—seriously underrated eye-catchers! 

Flow Requirements

1. Moderate to strong indirect flow is best

Pavona appreciates movement that mimics the surge zones of the reef where it naturally grows. This keeps detritus from settling on its surface and delivers nutrients to the polyps.

2. Enough current to keep its surface clean, but not so much that polyps can’t extend

You want to see some gentle tissue movement. Too little flow can lead to algae buildup and poor respiration; too much will make the polyps retract and stress the coral out.

3. Direct blasts from powerheads should be avoided

Constant, high-velocity flow can damage its delicate tissue and lead to recession or “bald” spots where it stops encrusting.

Tamara’s Pro Tip: Watch the polyps—always. If they’re out and gently moving, you’re usually right in the sweet spot. Just keep in mind, while polyp extension is a helpful indicator, always evaluate it in combination with color vibrancy, tissue integrity, and growth patterns for a clearer picture of coral health.

Feeding and Nutrition

1. Photosynthetic but benefits from light supplemental feeding

Like many SPS corals, Pavona contains symbiotic zooxanthellae that provide energy through photosynthesis. While Pavona derives most energy from photosynthesis, some species show improved growth with supplemental feeding of planktonic foods.

2. Broadcast feed 1–2 times per week

A gentle broadcast with the return pump off gives the coral time to absorb food particles without competing flow pulling them away. Feeding more than twice a week usually isn’t necessary unless you’re running a heavy SPS system.

3. Try foods like Reef Roids, rotifers, or phytoplankton

Powdered and fine-particle foods work best. Pavona doesn’t have long sweepers or mouths like LPS corals, so it relies on capturing tiny suspended particles from the water column.

4. Avoid overfeeding

Too much can spike nutrients and lead to algae or cyanobacteria. Start small, monitor response, and adjust as needed.

Tamara’s Pro Tip: In my tanks, Pavona shows the best polyp extension and feeding response about 30 minutes after lights go out. I like to dim the lights or use moonlights, turn off the pumps, and let the corals settle into “feeding mode” before gently broadcasting food.

Growth Rate and Fragging

1. Growth rate could be fast

Growth speed depends on species: Pavona cactus encrusts rapidly, while Pavona decussata may take months to form noticeable layers.

2. Will encrust and spread or plate outward depending on space

One of Pavona’s unique features is its ability to adapt its growth form. Pavona cactus typically forms thin, contorted plates, while Pavona decussata grows in stacked, leafy layers. Pavona frondifera develops irregular branches or finger-like structures. If placed on a flat surface, it tends to encrust outward like a spreading mat. On vertical or open structures, it may plate, curl, or form finger-like projections. This versatility makes it a fun coral to aquascape with.

3. Fragging is relatively easy

Unlike some delicate SPS, Pavona handles fragging well. The tissue is firm, but its thin tissue is prone to tearing or bacterial infections if cut improperly. Use sharp tools to minimize tissue damage, and dip frags in iodine post-cutting to prevent infections. Regrowth typically starts quickly when frags are placed in good flow and light. It’s a great coral to learn SPS fragging on.

Tamara’s Pro Tip: I prefer using bone cutters or a diamond Dremel wheel to make clean cuts across the ridges. Try to avoid scraping or bruising the tissue when handling frags, and let them heal on a frag rack before placing on rockwork for best success.

Aggression and Compatibility

1. Warfare!

While Pavona isn’t known for long sweeper tentacles, some aquarists report it may compete chemically for space—though more research is needed to confirm allelopathy in this genus.

2. Give it space around slow growers like chalices or LPS

While Pavona may seem peaceful, it doesn’t play well with corals that like to stay put and take their time growing. Chalices, Acans, and other fleshy LPS can easily be overrun or shaded if they’re placed too close. Always give Pavona at least a few inches of breathing room.

Tamara’s Pro Tip: I keep it away from mushrooms and zoas—not because it’ll sting them, but because it’ll just bulldoze through if left unchecked. Pavona will happily encrust right over your favorite zoa colony if you give it the chance, and once it’s started, it’s tough to stop!

Troubleshooting

1. Problem: Tissue recession at the base

Cause: Detritus buildup, bacterial infections, or prolonged shading from other corals

Solution: Gently siphon out debris collecting around the base and ensure moderate, indirect flow is reaching the area. If tissue loss continues, frag the healthy portion and remount it in a cleaner, better-lit location to save the colony.

Tamara’s Pro Tip: Don’t let your Pavona become a detritus trap—it’s a slow killer. A turkey baster works great for routine maintenance.

2. Problem: Color looks dull or brown

Cause: Low light intensity, elevated nutrients (nitrate/phosphate), or lack of feeding

Solution: Slowly increase PAR levels and monitor nutrient levels. Ideal nitrate should hover around 5–10 ppm and phosphate at 0.03–0.08 ppm. Supplemental feeding can help brighten coloration.

Tamara’s Pro Tip: If your bright green Pavona is suddenly beige, don’t panic. Try bumping up the light and feeding Reef Roids a couple times a week—you’ll often see color bounce back.

3. Problem: No polyp extension

Cause: Too much direct flow, recent fragging, poor water quality

Solution: Reassess the coral’s placement. Polyp extension is a strong indicator of happiness, so if it’s tucked in, test for elevated ammonia or nitrate, and ensure it’s not being blasted by a powerhead.

Tamara’s Pro Tip: After fragging, Pavona can sulk for days or even a week. Give it time in a low-stress spot and it’ll usually come back stronger.

4. Problem: Coral is bleaching or turning white

Cause:Bleaching can result from high temperatures, rapid PAR increases, or alkalinity instability. Check heater function and temperature consistency if bleaching occurs.

Solution: Move the coral lower in the tank or add a mesh screen to diffuse light. Double-check alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium—bleaching often starts when one of these gets out of whack.

Tamara’s Pro Tip: Bleaching usually starts at the edges. If caught early, a light acclimation ramp and dosing stability can reverse it.

5. Problem: Growth has stalled

Cause: Not enough nutrients or inconsistent parameters

Solution: Pavona likes a little “dirt” in the water. Make sure your nitrates and phosphates aren’t bottoming out. Stable alkalinity (8–9 dKH) and calcium (400–450 ppm) are key for steady encrusting.

Tamara’s Pro Tip: I’ve seen Pavona take off again just from feeding phytoplankton twice a week in an ultra-clean tank. Sometimes a little boost makes all the difference.

FAQs About Pavona Corals

1. Is Pavona a good first SPS coral?

Absolutely. Pavona is often recommended as one of the more forgiving SPS species. It tolerates a wider range of conditions than Acropora or Montipora, making it an excellent choice for hobbyists who are just starting to explore SPS care. As long as you provide moderate light and flow, you’ll find it quite rewarding.

2. Will it sting nearby corals?

Pavona doesn’t have long sweeper tentacles like some aggressive LPS, so it won’t “sting” in the traditional sense. However, it is very good at overgrowing or shading its neighbors. This makes it a silent space-taker—especially dangerous to slower-growing corals like chalices or encrusting LPS. Give it some room to expand, or it may end up smothering nearby colonies.

3. Does it need to be fed?

Technically no—Pavona is fully photosynthetic and can thrive off light alone. But if you want to maximize growth and bring out the best coloration, occasional feeding helps. A couple of light feedings per week with powdered coral food or live plankton can make a noticeable difference, especially in nutrient-poor systems.

4. How fast does it grow?

Pavona can be a surprisingly fast grower once it settles in. Under moderate to high lighting and stable parameters, you might see visible growth within a few weeks. Some morphs will encrust rock quickly or start forming plates or ridges, depending on the species and placement. With regular feeding and proper conditions, it can easily outpace other SPS in your tank.

Conclusion

Pavona corals are easy to care for, visually unique, and more tolerant than many other SPS options. If you’re looking for a coral that’s resilient, adaptable, and just a bit underrated, Pavona deserves a spot in your reef. It’s perfect for reefers who want color and texture without all the high-maintenance stress that sometimes comes with fancier SPS.

Happy Reefing!

References:

1. Borneman, Eric H. Aquarium Corals: Selection, Husbandry, and Natural History. TFH Publications, 2001.

2. Calfo, Anthony, and Robert Fenner. Reef Invertebrates: An Essential Guide to Selection, Care, and Compatibility. Reading Trees Publications, 2003.

3. Delbeek, J. Charles, and Julian Sprung. The Reef Aquarium: Science, Art, and Technology. Vol. 3, Ricordea Publishing, 2005.

4. Fossa, Svein A., and Alf Jacob Nilsen. The Modern Coral Reef Aquarium. Vol. 4, Birgit Schmettkamp Verlag, 2002.

5. Sprung, Julian. Corals: A Quick Reference Guide. Oceanographic Series, 1999.